I’m wrestling with a single central today where the incisal halo reads right under 5500K but turns warm by 2 pm in north light. Cutback e.max with feldspathic micro-layering (base 2M1, a breath of TI and Enamel Opal, 770°C with a 1:00 hold) still blooms milky over an ND3 stump — what’s your go-to move to cool the halo without flattening depth — subtle gray-violet wash at the mamelons, different enamel translucency, or a tweak in the second bake?
I’ve had that shift on an ‘ND3 stump’ too… I micro‑stain the internal halo with a whisper‑thin gray‑violet at the mamelon tips (Akzent Plus Grey‑Blue), cap with Opal Effect 2 instead of straight Enamel Opal, and fire about 10°C lower with a shorter hold to curb the bloom — think sunglasses, not blackout curtains. Keep it ultra‑thin; if it still reads warm, swap TI for a touch of EO1 + Neutral to cool it without killing depth.
@OP I cool it from the inside: push the halo slightly palatal and paint a whisper of Lustre Pastes ‘Ice Gray’ (or e.max Ceram Transpa Blue cut into Neutral Glaze) after the first dentin bake, then lock it in with a very thin Opal Enamel so the depth stays intact. On an ND3, dropping the second enamel bake 10–15°C and trimming the hold tames the milky bloom, and if the “turns warm by 2 pm” persists, a neutral try‑in cement like Variolink Esthetic Neutral usually nudges it back.